There’s a certain familiarity to dining at Netsu, the modern, minimalist pan-Asian restaurant occupying an inside-outside position on the ground floor of the Mandarin Oriental in Dubai’s Jumeirah. There’s a distinct Dubai-ness to both the décor and the menu that has you recalling other stylish favourites in the city down the years, whether it’s the perennial crowd-pleasing Zuma or the much-lamented H Hotel staple, Okku.
It is to brand creator Ross Shonhan’s credit that Netsu doesn’t pale in comparison to those local heavyweights, and it may even pick up the mantle if it continues to build on what it does right. The high ceilings, exposed pipework, bare concrete and open kitchen are certainly very “now” but when combined with the Japanese ephemera – drums, giant mask murals – and the constant flicker of flame from the wok pans, there’s a warmth and intimacy that creates a welcoming embrace.
It’s a theme that continues through to the first dishes, which arrive in small bite-sized portions that serve to both whet the appetite and also somehow satisfy it. We shied away from the Signature Sharing Menu (AED490 per person) and the wagyu-heavy Chef’s Omakase Menu (AED590 per person) and opted for own scattergun selection from the small and cold dish section.
We did well, too. From the tangy, spicy, soy-glazed Beef Kushiyaki skewers and the light-as-a-feather Fried Squid, to the Yellowtail Tiradito with pickled kumquat and chili and, perhaps the highlight of the entire meal, the fresh citrus bursts of the Hamachi Tacos from within their fragile shells, it was tempting to stop right there and order another round. It was all inventive, multi-textured and replete with an appealing range of flavours; the spice warmed without overpowering, the ponzu never veered into sourness. Wonderful.
Grand finale
It was a hard act to follow, and the if there was one slight miss it was the new-to-the-menu Grilled King Crab Leg, which was crying out for a sharper edge to the kosho glaze to offset the soft, pillowy richness of the otherwise perfectly cooked meat. This was the definition of too much of a good thing: After two mouthfuls we were intimidated by the amount that remained.
To the rescue, though, were two excellent platters of salmon maki and California rolls, which eased back on the always slightly unnecessary mayo, and a main of Spicy Miso Chilean Seabass with spring onion and pickled red chilli, which had a better blend of spice, sweetness and texture than the aforementioned crab.
That said, we still felt a yuzu sorbet – light, icy and sour – was the ideal way to round things out, cleaning our palates and allowing our tastebuds to remember the many highlights of a generally exceptional experience. When social distancing eases off, you feel this will be a regular on the must-try and most-visited lists and with a refinement here and there will emerge from the shadow of its forebears to stake its own place on Dubai’s dining scene.
Netsu by Ross Shonhan, Manadrin Oriental, Jumeirah Beach Road, Jumeirah.
Tel: +971 4 777 2232
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